Northumberland and North Wales Holiday
Monday 12th June 2017
We had packed up our climbing kit last night so it was ready to go this morning. Once we were ready to go this morning we gathered up or stuff and set off in the car for Clogwyn yr Oen (translated to Cliff of the Lamb!) in the Moelwyns.
It took about 25 mins to get to the carpark. It was not raining so we decided to go for it. We loaded up and set off up the path.
By the time we got up the hill it had started raining and looked set in for the day. We saw there were some other climbers a bit further along so hoped that it wasn't slippery if they were happy to climb. We made our way to the bottom of the climb. And waited to see if the rain was going to dry up! It didn't seem like it would but decided that we were wet anyway so we would go for it! The route was called 'Slick' and is divided into four 20m pitches with suitable belaying ledges!
The guide book describes as follows...
1) 20m. Climb up a wide crack to a ledge on the rib. Carry on up the rib past several small ledges to a big ledge and belay.
2) 20m. Move left and onto a flake then take the crack above, veering left into a scoop at its top. Climb a small groove to below a steepening then up the massive jugs on the right before teetering back left to a ledge. Belay off large gear and a root.
3) 20m. Follow the groove then move left onto a slab. At the top of a broken pillar, move right onto the slab and make thin and technical moves up this to another large ledge below a crack.
4) 20m. Ascend the short but difficult crack, and then swarm up the slab above to the top.
We started climbing around 11:30 by the time Tim had got to the top of the first pitch the rain had stopped. It then stayed dry the rest of our ascent. It took us about an hour per pitch, we reached the top about 15:30 and felt very pleased with our efforts. It was the first ascent we had done that was that height and more than 2 pitches. I was excited to have a go at a bigger climb but I must admit the thought of it did make me feel nervous but by the time we got to the foot of the climb it didn't feel so bad. I don't think it helped that there is such big scenery so it looked daunting. The route was fairly straight forward to follow.
Once we were both at to top we followed a well used path back down to the bottom of the crag. We then walked back to the car and made our way back to the cottage. We sorted out all our kit and the Tim somehow found the energy to cook a lovely roast dinner! This evening we watched another film from the cottage cupboard!
Tomorrow we are hopefully going to walk up Snowdon!
The guide book describes as follows...
1) 20m. Climb up a wide crack to a ledge on the rib. Carry on up the rib past several small ledges to a big ledge and belay.
2) 20m. Move left and onto a flake then take the crack above, veering left into a scoop at its top. Climb a small groove to below a steepening then up the massive jugs on the right before teetering back left to a ledge. Belay off large gear and a root.
3) 20m. Follow the groove then move left onto a slab. At the top of a broken pillar, move right onto the slab and make thin and technical moves up this to another large ledge below a crack.
4) 20m. Ascend the short but difficult crack, and then swarm up the slab above to the top.
We started climbing around 11:30 by the time Tim had got to the top of the first pitch the rain had stopped. It then stayed dry the rest of our ascent. It took us about an hour per pitch, we reached the top about 15:30 and felt very pleased with our efforts. It was the first ascent we had done that was that height and more than 2 pitches. I was excited to have a go at a bigger climb but I must admit the thought of it did make me feel nervous but by the time we got to the foot of the climb it didn't feel so bad. I don't think it helped that there is such big scenery so it looked daunting. The route was fairly straight forward to follow.
Tomorrow we are hopefully going to walk up Snowdon!
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